Locarno

Upon invitation from my lovely colleague Brigit, I took a quick train ride to Locarno this past Saturday. Only 40 minutes from Lugano, Locarno is a quieter and more charming town, attracting artisans and tourists alike.

Known for it’s famed international film festival, which takes place annually each August, Locarno is a resort town located along the shore of Lake Maggiore.

Brigit is an accomplished ceramicist who has maintained a studio in Locarno for over 25 years. From the local bakery to other artisan establishments, Brigit was greeted by dear and adoring friends. I felt privileged to receive such a warm and welcoming introduction to the town.

I met Brigit in her studio, having just finished a three-hour workshop with a private client.

Brigit’s space is charming and compact, her landlord thrilled to have a tenant who promotes the creative arts. Locarno is still very much a small village, this is clear, and the locals take pride in maintaining this sense of community.

At Arte Ceramica, Brigit offers workshops for groups and individuals. She also uses the space as her own studio, producing intricate works on the wheel and sculpting them into nebulous organic forms.

I greatly admire her balance of her artistic practice and her teaching practice, as well as her zest for reinvention. A rolling stone indeed gathers no moss.

After touring her studio, we struck out for Old Town. Founded in the 12th century, Locarno boasts many churches, a number of art museums, and lots of adorable squares and cafes.

Visconti Castle sits along the banks of Lake Maggiore, but a visit to the castello which reputedly hosted Leonardo da Vinci, will have to wait for my next visit. Keen for a warm soup on a damp October day, we strolled up to Pasticceria Marnin, a local favorite.

I enjoyed my first pumpkin soup of the season, alongside a homemade chestnut bread (local to the region) and a small tuna sandwich. Brigit enjoyed a slice of this outrageously delicious caramel apple cake above (I may have snuck a bite).

As usual, all good visits must come to an end. The rain began just as I boarded the train back to Lugano, proving a timely companion as we wound our way back through the green valleys to the banks of Lake Lugano. I look forward to my next visit to Locarno and hope to bring my next set of visitors – friends from Istanbul, Stephen and Velora – who arrive on Saturday!