Torino

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swissmissmeg

February 23, 2025

Torino. A former capital city of Italy, Torino is today the capital of the Piedmont region of northern Italy. The city forms an industrial triangle with Milan and Genoa. Home to Fiat (Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino) and the shroud of Turin, Torino hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics. It will play a role in the upcoming 2026 Winter Games when Milan and northern Italy officially host next February (visitors welcome!).

Torino sits nestled in the foothills of the Alps. In fact, a view of the mountains can be seen at the end of the wide, tree-lined avenues in town.

With a three day weekend on my hands, I chose Torino for its proximity to Lugano – only 2.5 hours by train. It’s slightly off the well trodden tourist path. The locals were very welcoming and patient with my slowly growing Italian.

For accommodation, I chose an Airbnb in the San Salvario neighborhood, a ten minute walk from the Porta Nuova train station. Airbnbs can be quite controversial these days for turning apartment buildings into rentals devoid of residents. Torino seems to have held onto its residents for the time being and I absolutely adored my stay in the eaves at Sibilla’s place. She has even created a guidebook for neighborhood restaurants and local arts and culture.

Some may shy away from a city with a little grit but, for me, this means the place is lived in, legit, and full of normal people living everyday lives. I really enjoy joining a community and seeing how it ticks, even only for a few days.

When reading about the history of the region, the Royal House of Savoy was impossible to miss. An ancient royal family dating back to 1000 AD, the Duke of Savoy moved his capital to Torino in the mid-1500s.

Wandering through the Royal Palace, I saw royal wealth on display like that of Versailles.

The deep red velvets and porcelain vases proved a gaudy contrast to the down-to-earth vibe of the town, still economically well off due to the presence of industry.

Outside the palace, I found a Renaissance chapel next to the ruins of an Ancient Roman theatre dating back to 13 BC. As an American, the history in this region of the world often takes me by surprise. I love seeing the layers of a thousand years of architectural history side-by-side.

What would be a trip to Italy without the food? Each region is very proud of their gastro specialties and Torino is no different. A drink called bicerin (be-cher-in) was highly recommended. A hot drink, bicerin consists of espresso layered with drinking chocolate and topped off with a dollop of creme. To be sipped slowly!

I found bicerin on the menu a block from my Airbnb at Bistrot Torrefazione Samambaia, a classic cafe plastered wall-to-wall with advertisements from a bygone era. Happily, I found myself among locals having their morning coffee – many at the stand up bar, normal in Italy.

As I was traveling on Valentine’s Day, sit-down reservations were hard to come by. I will definitely return to Torino and Trattoria Carmen is top of my list. One dish I hope to try is tajarin, a homemade egg noodle dish served with truffles.

Winter travel can have cozy perks. I often bookmark a few extra coffeeshops and teahouses in neighborhoods I plan to visit to allow for warm breaks. The chance to meet more people and observe local culture is never a lost opportunity. In this case, I found Teapot, also located in my charming hipster neighborhood. When I walked into the sounds of Creedence’s Born on the Bayou, I knew I had found a quality crowd.

Wandering the medieval Contrada dei Guardinfanti neighborhood, I stopped into art galleries, ceramic studios, and leather shops. The flags of La Contrada hang from balcony to balcony, proudly informing visitors of a time when this network of streets sold dresses with bell-shaped frames for the noblewomen of the 19th century. The football club Juventus also calls Torino home and their black and white logo is plastered on many a corner of the downtown as well.

On my way out of town, I stopped into a pasticceria to collect treats for a friend’s birthday. I asked for one of everything and the treats were much appreciated 🙂

A short list for my next trip to Torino:

A visit to the Egyptian Museum and the Museo dell’Automobile (Fiat, Alfa Romero, and Maserati are headquartered there)
Dinner at Carmen Trattoria (tajarin)

As spring draws closer, I’m looking ahead to travel with my school throughout Switzerland. This weekend brought a day trip to Andermatt with friends. Soon I’ll head to Engelberg for a four day ski trip with my students. There is never a shortage of places to visit and sights to see in this part of the world. I appreciate the less frenzied pace as work keeps me busy enough. On to the next!

3 responses to “Torino”

gridmichal

February 23, 2025

How beautiful! The one time I was briefly in Italy, I found the industrialized, smoggy, (rude) drivers more like being in New Joisey than southern Italy, which was more Carolina-like. Those are memories of 40 years ago, so I would certainly hope there had been changes! When we were driving south from northern Italy we stopped for dinner in a nice town off the “interstate.” Other than “pizza” and “arrivederci,” neither my wife (ex #2) nor I spoke Italian. We deferred to the waiter’s knowledge, and he brought something back that was delicious, each item requiring a different mustard, which came in decorative jars in a 7-8″ long carrier. I thought Sarah would like one at home, so I asked for one and they brought it. Still trusting, I signed my Amex and we sallied forth. When we got home a couple of weeks later, the bill–translated–was waiting. The mustard was $125!! I think I lost custody of it, but the few times I tasted it, it was delicious. In picture #4 there appears to be an A/C unit on the wall. Our friends lived in Collex-Bossy, a suburb of Geneva. I don’t know if it was a national no-no, Geneva, or Collex, but I remember Nina telling me that A/C units weren’t allowed. I know Italy isn’t Switzerland, but if there is such a ‘law,’ what’s the reason? I may have told you, but I’m old and forgetful, so skip over this if I have. Nina took me to Mont Blanc, where we boarded the little swinging, jerky box called a cable car (which sounds a lot more romantic) to ride halfway up where I could get my heart out of my bowels and do it again for the second half! Two things were in my mind: 1. Everything is built by the lowest bidder. That means corner-cutting. 2. As a mechanic I know if man made it, God will break it, and it was a lonnnnnnnnnnnnng way back down at 500MPH in a runaway cable car. It would be a long way, but the stop would fetch you up right quick. At the restaurant at the top were dozens of burial crosses. I asked Nina what they were there for. She replied that each had the name of a person who thought he could ski down Mont Blanc. Remember that when you strap those sticks on. One more about Italian restaurants. Your dad would have been Brooks Brothers; I’d be the one hoping I’d used my deodorant that week. Here goes: Now, I know you’re old enough to know if there are 10 guys standing around, 9 are in Brook Brothers’ suits and one in 30X30 jeans with an AMC racing jacket on, you don’t ask “Have you seen Dad anywhere?”” The jeans have expanded numerically, but I’d appreciate no comments, please.

Once a month all the city managers had to go to DC for forecast review and adjustment. I could have saved so much money just asking how much was I going to get screwed, and staying in Trenton. But I wasn’t ASKED to catch a train down, I was TOLD to attend. And I did. At the same time I was tilting at a bunch of windmills, there was a power/political struggle at the top two levels (just under God): zone and regional managers. The regional manager (Bill Welty) wore Brooks Brothers, had had 4 serious heart attacks. The zone manager, Clay Barnes, was more attuned to jeans, t-shirts with Camels rolled up in his left sleeve. One month we’d put in a grueling day with the forecasts . We were abandoned for about an hour and when Bill and Clay returned, Bill was the new zone manager and Clay, the new regional manager. Bill actually looked relieved he’d had a ton of political BS lifted from his shoulders. As the day wore on we realized we were going to have to eat out, rather than go home for dinner, so off we went to a Watergate restaurant, an Italian restaurant high up in one of the buildings. We seemed to be so far up, if I’d been told I could see NYC, I’d have no reason to disbelieve. There were 12 of us at the table. 10 Brooks Bros. 1 t-shirt, 1 ANC racing jacket. The jacket and the t-shirt sat next to each other. The menu was in Italian without subtitles. Pizza wasn’t a choice. While the 10 BBs ordered, Clay leaned over and asked, “Do you know what you’re going to get yet?” I said, “No sir, I can’t read this.” He said, “Wanna share an antipasta?” SAVED!! “That would be great!!” He placed the order and shortly the salads came. Then the meals –all but mine. Clay asked, “What did you order?” I said, “I told you I couldn’t read this, so you said ‘Let’s split an antipasta.” “ When Clay realized what had happened, he said , “Guys! Listen to this !” I maxxed out on humiliation as he asked the rest didn’t they think that was the funniest thing they’d heard. The rest of the guys were laughing so hard they almost didn’t hear Clay say, “Each of you give Grid half your dinner. Now.” I ate like a king that night.

Meg, I was honored to have your Dad and Mark work with me, so when I say he would have been one of the Brooks Brothers gang, that is to indicate how far removed I was from the upper echelon, not to denigrate my peers. Thank you for continuing to include me in your travels. Grid

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Barry

February 23, 2025

love your travel stories

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n3deveno

February 23, 2025

Thank you Meg for this posting. We want to go there now, thanks to you!

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